Hanfu Ushers In A Brilliant Moment Of Traditional Costume Culture

"Mo Chun is the person who has already made the spring clothes, five or six of them are the crowns, six or seven of them are the children, who are bathing in Yi, dancing in the rain, singing and returning." In the heart of Confucius disciples Zeng Dian, the ambition of life is this picture of spring outings. More than 2000 years later, people's enthusiasm for life has not diminished. Nowadays, wearing seasonal clothes, inviting friends and going for an outing are still the best way for many young people to welcome the beautiful spring scenery.

In the picture of spring outings around the country, Han costumes are particularly eye-catching: they are mostly designed based on the costumes of ancient Chinese dynasties, with a strong traditional flavor; They have various shapes and styles, showing the brilliance of China's traditional clothing culture.

More and more people are familiar with Hanfu, and more and more people love to wear Hanfu. Why do Han suits often "go out of the circle"? In the spring, the reporter went to the fans, disseminators and researchers of Hanfu with questions to explore the cultural stories behind the "Hanfu craze".

A child dressed in a Han suit plays in the Tang Paradise in Xi'an, Shaanxi Province. Shen Jizhong

A man took a group photo with hanfu lovers in front of the Houses of Parliament in London, England. Shen Jizhong

Tourists dressed in traditional costumes walk in Qingzhou Ancient City Scenic Spot in Shandong Province. Shen Jizhong

People dressed in traditional costumes took part in the folk custom exhibition parade in Xinglong Old Street, Xuanen County, Hubei Province. Shen Jizhong

In the rape flower field of the Five Lakes and Four Seas Wetland Park in Pengshan District, Meishan, Sichuan, many hanfu enthusiasts performed on the catwalk. Shen Jizhong

Hanfu into daily life

How hot is the current "Hanfu craze"? On a platform, the short videos on the topic of "New Chinese Style 'Wearing and Matching'" were played more than 12 billion times; In January this year, the turnover of Chinese clothing categories such as horse face skirts increased by more than 300% year on year; After the Spring Festival Gala program "Nianjin" appeared, Hanfu immediately became a hot topic on the Internet.

After "Nian Jin" helped Han clothing "break the circle", many Han clothing lovers could not help sighing: "From the minority to the top class, Han clothing has gone 20 years."

Back in November 2003, Wang Lotian, a citizen of Zhengzhou, put on his Hanfu and took to the streets, becoming one of the first Hanfu lovers reported by the media, which is also an important beginning of the "Hanfu trend" recognized by the "Hanfu circle". Since then, Hanfu, which has a strong traditional cultural color, has increasingly entered the public's vision and gradually become popular.

So why did the "Han Costume Trend" begin at the beginning of the 21st century?

"The successful bid for the Olympic Games, the hosting of the APEC meeting, and the accession to the World Trade Organization... When China has taken a firm step into the new century, the cultural self-confidence of the Chinese people has also been rising. The emergence of Hanfu is the result of people's further recognition of Chinese culture after reaching a certain level of economic development." Fan Yugang, a visiting professor of the Institute of Global Urban Civilization Models at Southern University of Science and Technology, told the reporter that there are deep social and cultural motivations behind the "Han Costume Trend".

Nowadays, there are more and more hanfu lovers, and the influence of hanfu is also growing. According to the data jointly released by the China National Garment Association and other institutions, by 2023, the market size of China's modern Chinese clothing industry will reach about 13 billion yuan, and the number of consumers will be about 14.48 million.

Searching for the styles of Han style clothes on the Internet, we can see various styles and shapes of clothes made in Jin, Tang, Song, etc. Some are full of ancient styles, while others are closer to modern clothes. The consumption market of Han style clothing has produced different subdivisions, and the most common one in daily life is commuting Han style clothing.

Liang Yan, a professor from the School of Fashion Arts and Engineering of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, told the reporter that the goal of the commuting design of Han style clothing is to adapt the ancient Chinese clothing, so that Han style clothing can be integrated into people's daily life and work.

"Commuting design should be based on the full study of ancient clothing." Liang Yan took an example. She once designed a daily women's upper garment based on the large sleeves of women's clothing of the Southern Song Dynasty unearthed from the Huashan Tomb in Gaochun, Nanjing. The original sleeve length of the cultural relics reached 220 cm, which is obviously a big difference from modern clothing. After the experiment, she and her team modified the sleeve length and sleeve fat, and completed the design on the basis of not changing the overall traditional style of the clothing, so that the clothing can meet the needs of "wear to work".

"Costumes are an important part of social life, and the changes in costumes reflect the profound changes in national development and national psychology. The strong national strength provides a stage and support for cultural development and prosperity. In this context, the Han style clothing has come to the front of the stage." Fan Yugang analyzed that the flow of Han style clothing is the result of the combination of social psychological needs and technology application promotion. "For example, the new Chinese style clothing represented by the horse face skirt has enriched the daily life style and value expression of the public, not only making the excellent traditional Chinese culture live into the daily life of the public, but also enhancing people's recognition of traditional culture and traditional aesthetics."

Walking into the world of Hanfu is walking into the traditional culture "Hundred Flowers Garden"

Nan Yu, a post-90s Han costume enthusiast, once volunteered as a Chinese teacher in primary schools in Pingshan County, Yibin, Sichuan Province. Whenever they see her wearing a Chinese costume, children know that today's Chinese class must be related to ancient poetry and prose. Nan Yu can feel that every time she goes to ancient poetry class in a Han suit, the children will always be particularly involved.

Nan Yu believes that clothing is the basic need of daily life, and clothing can connect with all aspects of life. In her opinion, Han Costume is like a multi-functional key, opening the door to different categories of traditional culture. Some people become lovers of traditional clothing because they like Han style clothes; Others have entered the world of Hanfu because of their research on other traditional cultural categories. "People may have different interests, but their love for traditional culture is the same," she said.

Nan Yu also shared a story with reporters about the "Han clothing circle": they called people who also loved Han clothing "Tongpao". If they saw "Tongpao" wearing Han clothing in life, even strangers would greet each other tacitly. "People of the same age bow to each other while the younger generation gives almighty gifts to the elder. There are different ceremonies in different dynasties, genders and identities..." From Hanfu to the ancient ritual system, to other excellent Chinese traditional cultures contained in Hanfu, young Hanfu lovers are not simply "happy to wear beautiful clothes and take a picture", They have a deep understanding and understanding of the traditional culture associated with Han clothing.

Liang Yan told the reporter that the trend of Hanfu originated from the public's pursuit of the beauty of traditional clothing culture, and the long and splendid ancient clothing culture is the basis of the emergence of Hanfu. Clothing culture is inextricably linked with traditional craft, art, etiquette, diet, drama, etc. Entering the world of Hanfu is entering the "Hundred Flowers Garden" of traditional culture, which is the charm of Hanfu, but also the charm of excellent traditional culture. Therefore, behind the "Hanfu craze" is the return of Chinese aesthetics and the popularity of traditional culture.

In addition to Hanfu, in recent years, traditional operas, historical relics, etc. have also been "out of the circle" and "broken the circle" frequently. The "national tide fever" continues to rise, and people often sigh that "indeed, the aesthetic of the old ancestors is the most advanced". In Fan Yugang's opinion, although these hot phenomena have some accidental factors, the reason is that "national tide" is rooted in excellent traditional culture. "Traditional culture has approached the public in a variety of ways, especially the vision of young people, which is the best interpretation of the creative transformation and innovative development of excellent Chinese traditional culture." Fan Yugang said.

Let more people feel the beauty of Hanfu

About 10 years ago, Zhao Yiwa, the blogger of traditional culture videos, began to try to wear Han style clothes on the streets. At that time, there were few "peers" on the road. Today, when walking on the street in Han style clothes, you will meet many like-minded people. Many passers-by will not be stingy in their praise of Han style clothes. Some will come forward to take a picture with her and talk about the knowledge of ancient clothes. She deeply felt that the popularity of Hanfu was getting higher and higher.

During the visit, many hanfu enthusiasts said that in recent years, people's awareness of hanfu has been improving, which is inseparable from the concern and support of all sectors of society for hanfu and traditional culture. For example, the Central Committee of the Communist Youth League has launched the "Chinese Costume Day" activity. Every year on the third day of the third month of the lunar calendar, various activities will be held around the country to show the beauty of traditional ethnic costumes; At the beginning of school, Nanjing, Jiangsu Province held a "opening ceremony" for primary school students at the Confucius Temple. At the event, the children wore scholar style gowns; Shandong, Guangdong, Zhejiang, Sichuan and other places have successively launched activities such as Hanfu Cultural Festival to attract more people to understand the traditional clothing culture

Fan Yugang analyzed that the improvement of the popularity of Hanfu is the result of the country's efforts to promote the inheritance of excellent traditional culture. People fully understand and contact traditional culture, and also re recognize the value of traditional culture.

Zhao Yiwa believes that in recent years, the rapid popularization of Hanfu in China is inseparable from the progress of new media technology. She wants to use the advantages of new media technology and platform to introduce Chinese culture represented by Han Fu to the world. "Some overseas ordinary people still have a relatively low awareness of Chinese clothing and other clothing, and do not know much about the traditional Chinese culture behind it. Therefore, there is still much to do to popularize Chinese clothing culture overseas." Zhao Yiwa's short videos are made in both Chinese and English, and in her own videos, she often refers to "From China" in English.

"These young people use new technology and new methods to show 'who am I', which not only shows our strong recognition of our own cultural traditions and national identity, but also reflects the Chinese nation's pursuit of innovative values of being upright and not conservative, respecting the past and not reverting to the past." Fan Yugang believes that young people who use modern technology to creatively express Han suits, It not only has love and respect for traditional culture, but also shows infinite creativity and imagination, providing new opportunities and space for the development of traditional culture.

As a hanfu lover, Nan Yu regards every "hanfu out of the street" as a good opportunity to popularize hanfu to others. She believes that "flowers and butterflies come naturally", and beautiful things will always attract everyone's attention. "The sunny day is just in time for spring. Wearing a favorite Han suit and going to a spring appointment with friends is the simplest and most appropriate choice to experience the charm of Han suits," said Nan Yu.

(Source: Guangming Daily)